In Batujaya, a half day's drive to the east of Jakarta, lies a complex of ancient buddhist temples slowly emerging from Karawang's rice padi mud. Walking among the mounds concealing these ruins you get a sense that there is something huge and undiscovered buried beneath your feet. The occasional story of rice farmers enriched by finds of gold trinkets only adds to the mystique.
Karawang is known as the “rice bowl” of Jakarta due to the endless rice paddies that year after year produce the carbohydrates necessary to sustain metropolitan Jakarta’s millions of hungry stomachs. Karawang owes its rice bowl status to the Citarum river and the annual floods which refresh Karawang’s layers of alluvial sedimentation keeping the rice growing year after year.
Jakarta isn’t the only civilisation the Karawang plains have historically supported, along the banks of the Citarum river there is evidence of much older human encampments. At Batujaya the remains of fifth and sixth century Buddhist communities is gradually emerging from rice padi silt that has built up over centuries of Citarum river floods.
I first became aware of Batujaya on reading about rice farmers’ ploughs getting accidentally stuck on human bones in burial sites and the farmers unearthing gold trinkets that had been buried together with the dead human. As you would expect, your average rice farmer isn’t too aware of the value of two thousand year old gold jewellery and typically sold it for melt down in local markets.
But the fact that the farmers came across two or three burial sites means there are likely to be more. Some basic research revealed that there are a number of prehistoric sites in Karawang. Most are in Batujaya and contain crumbling Buddhist temples but there are others in Cibuaya and in total there are around 30 specific locations where ancient remains poke out of the rice padis.
Little of these ancient sites have been excavated and it is exciting to walk over the mounds sticking out of the rice padis and wonder what could be hidden beneath them. The temples appear to be built from clay bricks, and in many places you can find them scattered around as if they were recently placed there.
The complex at Batujaya is the most expansive covering an area of around five hectares and consists of one large restored temple, one large temple in the process of restoration, several temples that are undergoing excavation, an ancient well, and scattered mounds of earth that have barely been touched by humans and who knows what is contained beneath them.
The restored temple is Candi Jiwa, or the temple of the spirit, and Candi Blandongan is the temple that is undergoing restoration although when we visited there wasn't much restoration activity. Still, both of these temples are impressive structures, and from them you can site other mounds sticking out of the rice paddies where clearly other ancient remains reside.
Batujaya and Cibuaya are well within day trip distance from Jakarta and worth visiting. Getting there isn't hard and just requires the usual perseverance to drive out of Jakarta. Karawang is east of Jakarta and hence you need to take the Cikampek Tol. I can't remember exactly where you take the exit from the toll but Rengasdengklok is the name of the town that you need to bear in mind as you pass through it on the way to Batujaya. Batujaya is in the village of Segaran so watch out for this name as you drive.
Getting back to Jakarta we took a short cut on a pontoon that took us an dour car across the Citarum river. We could never have found this on the way to Batujaya Segaran but it was pretty easy to find these mom and pop ferry operations on the way back.
Travel Adventures in Indonesia
Indonesia is a land of undiscovered traveler’s secrets. My blog's aim is to share the many amazing destinations I have discovered during my time here. My ideal destination is typically off the beaten track yet is no less accessible than many of the more well known places of interest. I hope that others can be inspired to visit Indonesia and share with me any secret travel locations they have discovered in this incredible country.
Friday, June 24, 2011
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Banda Spice Islands Nutmeg Sojourn
Panoramic View of Fort Belgica, Banda Neira, the Banda Islands, Southern Maluku, Indonesia. |
The Dutch East India Company Symbol, this one on the stone floor of the Chinese Temple. Banda Neira, the Banda Islands, South Maluku, Indonesia |
The red outer membrane is mace and it encases the nutmeg nut. |
Banda Neira in the foreground, Banda Besar in the background, and Rozengain barely visible in the distance. View from the summit of the Gunung Api volcano. |
A view of the governor's residence from his lawn. Banda Neira, Banda Islands, South Maluku, Indonesia. |
The church silhouetted in the Gunung Api volcano. Banda Neira, Banda Islands, South Maluku, Indonesia |
During my visit I stayed in the Maulana Hotel situated on the Banda Neira waterfront next to the port and boasting inspiring views of the Banda Api volcano just across the narrow strait between the two islands. The Maulana hotel is the best hotel on the Bandas and was built by the renowned and iconic character Bapak Des Alwi, otherwise known as the King of the Bandas, serving as one of his retirement activities. Des Alwi made my trip to the Bandas special. Every evening at the Maulana dinner was served with all guests sitting around the dinning table devouring seafood and sashimi fished from the Banda seas that same day with wasabi squeezed from a large Buddha shaped bottle. The evening after I climbed the Banda volcano Des clapped his hands and announced there would be a ceremony. He made a small speech and summoned me to the front of the table where he presented me with my certificate of citizenship to the Banda Islands. Des had made it a custom to present all who ascended to the summit of the volcano with such a citizenship paper granting free access to the islands and upon which it states the time it took the recipient to reach the summit.
Des Alwi's family featured large in the Banda's archipeligo's history, and Des himself was a historically significant figure in Indonesia's formative years and beyond. When he was a kid, the Dutch government exiled two leading intellectuals in the Indonesian nationalist movement from Java to the Bandas. These revolutionaries were Sutan Sjahrir, who went on to become Indonesia's first prime minister, and Mohammad Hatta who became the first vice president under the charismatic Sukarno. Sutan Sjahrir who was an educator, must have sensed the talent, latent passion and hunger for learning in Des Alwi, for he took him under his wing and when he finally returned to Java, was accompanied by the young Des. Des went on to play a role in Indonesia's revolution and exploiting his talent for communication was active in the mass media and in particular with the state radio station, Radio Republik Indonesia, and recorded on film the many dimensions of Indonesia's freedom struggle. Later he represented Indonesia internationally first as a cultural attache in the embassy in Bern, Austria and the Philippines. Sadly Des passed away in November of 2010.
Hotel Maulana. I wondered what the large bollard was for until a massive Pelni passenger liner moored outside of my bedroom |
Des Alwi presenting me with my citizenship papers. |
The Pelni Passenger Liner that Moored Outside My Bedroom At Hotel Maulana |
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Jungle River Cruise In Central Kalimantan
Palangkaraya, the capital city of Central Kalimantan province, is where Gaye Thavisin and Lorna Dowson-Collins have located Kalimantan Tour Destinations, a travel agency that is pioneering ecotourism in a part of Indonesia where the potential is high yet to date little has been achieved.
The city is situated two thirds of the way up Central Kalimantan's largest river, the Sungai Kahayan, which has its genesis up near the border of West Kalimantan in the Northern Mountains and winds its way 600 kilometers south emptying into the Java Sea near to the border with East Kalimantan and Banjarmasin.
The presence of one of Kalimantan's mighty rivers and its proximity to some of the last remaining pristine Borneo lowland rainforests and their orangutan and other exotic flora and fauna made Palangkaraya the perfect location for Kalimantan Tour Destinations to launch their keynote ecotourism experience, Jungle River Cruises aboard the Rahai'i Pangun.
Jungle River Cruises provides travelers to Central Kalimantan with minimal impact viewing of its rainforest, wildlife and riverside Dayak villages from the vantage point of a traditional river mode of transportation. It also benefits local communities by generating alternative livelihoods and teaching new skills that contribute to the development of a sustainable local eco-tourism economy. From my perspective, it is an easily accessible and effective weekend wind-down from the stresses and strains of living in fast paced Asian metropolises such as Jakarta, Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok.
The Rahai'i Pangun is a traditional river freighter converted by Kalimantan Tour Destinations into a comfortable river cruiser, perfectly designed for viewing the impenetrable walls of jungle passing by on either side, whilst protecting its passengers from the fearsome stinging hot Borneo sun and lashing rainstorms often hitting the river hard at dusk.
The deck is covered by a protective canvas that unobtrusively allows three hundred and sixty degree views yet can be extended further when the rains hit to keep you dry. It has very comfortable rattan furniture covered in soft cushions perfect for snoozing away the cruising hours, exactly what I was escaping Jakarta to do.
A highlight of a Rahai'i Pangun river cruise are the delectable local cuisines, my favorite being the giant freshwater prawns farmed down the river close to the sea, and the river fish cooked in a variety of forms. Local coffee is on call but if your pleasure is downing a cold beer while soaking up the atmosphere as time slowly passes you by then it's bring your own and the crew will keep it ice cold. Sleeping two, cabins are comfortable. Screens over the windows keep mozzies at bay, important as malaria is present. You have to be careful to shut the windows before the inevitable afternoon storm hits as soggy mattresses tend to detract from the deep sleep you'd expect when surrounded by jungle serenity.
Just north of Palangkaraya the smaller black water Sungai Rungan joins the brown water Kahayan. Interesting features of the Rungan are the plentiful lakes and islands, and the flooded forests. Natural obstacles and the flatness of the land cause the rivers of Central Kalimantan to follow a course that weaves back and forth like a wriggling earthworm. Over time the river tends to revert to the shortest route leaving loops of water cut off from its main flow and creating what are known as oxbow lakes or leaving islands around which it continues to flow.
The Nyaru Menteng Orangutan Rehabilitation Project uses these river islands as halfway houses for over 600 orphaned orangutans. The orphans are first taught skills they need to survive in the wild and then placed on these islands where they can be observed. Passengers can view them as they congregate on wooden platforms near to where the Rahai'i Pangun anchors for a night. We also saw hornbills flying slowly in the jungle foliage, eagles and kingfisher. Proboscis monkeys and the common macaque also made appearances. We didn't see any gibbons although their throaty call could be heard at dusk and we passed a gibbon sanctuary where access is strictly limited due to gibbon susceptibility to disease.
Getting to Palangkaraya to join the Rahai'i Pangun for a cruise isn't hard. Garuda and Lion Air have daily flights out of Jakarta. The Garuda flight took an hour and a half and cost Rp 1.3 million return. A more adventurous and time-consuming route is to come overland from Banjarmasin or even to come up the Kahayan River on a boat. However one gets there, a river cruise with Kalimantan River Cruises is worth doing and rates as an iconic Indonesian experience.
The city is situated two thirds of the way up Central Kalimantan's largest river, the Sungai Kahayan, which has its genesis up near the border of West Kalimantan in the Northern Mountains and winds its way 600 kilometers south emptying into the Java Sea near to the border with East Kalimantan and Banjarmasin.
The presence of one of Kalimantan's mighty rivers and its proximity to some of the last remaining pristine Borneo lowland rainforests and their orangutan and other exotic flora and fauna made Palangkaraya the perfect location for Kalimantan Tour Destinations to launch their keynote ecotourism experience, Jungle River Cruises aboard the Rahai'i Pangun.
Jungle River Cruises provides travelers to Central Kalimantan with minimal impact viewing of its rainforest, wildlife and riverside Dayak villages from the vantage point of a traditional river mode of transportation. It also benefits local communities by generating alternative livelihoods and teaching new skills that contribute to the development of a sustainable local eco-tourism economy. From my perspective, it is an easily accessible and effective weekend wind-down from the stresses and strains of living in fast paced Asian metropolises such as Jakarta, Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok.
The Rahai'i Pangun is a traditional river freighter converted by Kalimantan Tour Destinations into a comfortable river cruiser, perfectly designed for viewing the impenetrable walls of jungle passing by on either side, whilst protecting its passengers from the fearsome stinging hot Borneo sun and lashing rainstorms often hitting the river hard at dusk.
The deck is covered by a protective canvas that unobtrusively allows three hundred and sixty degree views yet can be extended further when the rains hit to keep you dry. It has very comfortable rattan furniture covered in soft cushions perfect for snoozing away the cruising hours, exactly what I was escaping Jakarta to do.
A highlight of a Rahai'i Pangun river cruise are the delectable local cuisines, my favorite being the giant freshwater prawns farmed down the river close to the sea, and the river fish cooked in a variety of forms. Local coffee is on call but if your pleasure is downing a cold beer while soaking up the atmosphere as time slowly passes you by then it's bring your own and the crew will keep it ice cold. Sleeping two, cabins are comfortable. Screens over the windows keep mozzies at bay, important as malaria is present. You have to be careful to shut the windows before the inevitable afternoon storm hits as soggy mattresses tend to detract from the deep sleep you'd expect when surrounded by jungle serenity.
Just north of Palangkaraya the smaller black water Sungai Rungan joins the brown water Kahayan. Interesting features of the Rungan are the plentiful lakes and islands, and the flooded forests. Natural obstacles and the flatness of the land cause the rivers of Central Kalimantan to follow a course that weaves back and forth like a wriggling earthworm. Over time the river tends to revert to the shortest route leaving loops of water cut off from its main flow and creating what are known as oxbow lakes or leaving islands around which it continues to flow.
The Nyaru Menteng Orangutan Rehabilitation Project uses these river islands as halfway houses for over 600 orphaned orangutans. The orphans are first taught skills they need to survive in the wild and then placed on these islands where they can be observed. Passengers can view them as they congregate on wooden platforms near to where the Rahai'i Pangun anchors for a night. We also saw hornbills flying slowly in the jungle foliage, eagles and kingfisher. Proboscis monkeys and the common macaque also made appearances. We didn't see any gibbons although their throaty call could be heard at dusk and we passed a gibbon sanctuary where access is strictly limited due to gibbon susceptibility to disease.
Getting to Palangkaraya to join the Rahai'i Pangun for a cruise isn't hard. Garuda and Lion Air have daily flights out of Jakarta. The Garuda flight took an hour and a half and cost Rp 1.3 million return. A more adventurous and time-consuming route is to come overland from Banjarmasin or even to come up the Kahayan River on a boat. However one gets there, a river cruise with Kalimantan River Cruises is worth doing and rates as an iconic Indonesian experience.
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Krakatau Eruption - December 2007
Anak Krakatau burst into life again in October of 2007. I've made four trips out to the island group over the years but have never been lucky enough to see an eruption. This time I didn't want to let an opportunity slip away. It's important to get up close and personal with an errupting volcano at least once in your life (as long as it doesn't cut it short). Particularly with Krakatau (or Krakatoa as it is known in the English speaking world) being one of those natural wonders that is etched into our collective memories. There are few who have not heard of the great eruption of 1883, the cataclysmic explosion and the ensuing tsunami that was recorded as far away as the English Channel.
A visit to Krakatau is easily a weekend trip if you're based in Jakarta or flying into Jakarta on a Friday early in the evening. My favorite point for getting a boat out is not via the better known Anyer and Carita in Banten Province on the West Coast of Java but the less direct route departing from Kalianda in southern Lampung. Anyer and Carita these days are much more visited by Jakartans with all of the usual crowds, rubbish and traffic. Although it takes a little more time, chartering a fishing boat from the sleepy fishing village of Kalianda in South Sumatera is a much more interesting option than braving the hoards in Banten.
Some facts about Krakatau. The 1883 eruption was one of the most violent volcanic events of modern times around 13,000 times the yield of the bomb which destroyed Hiroshima. 36,417 lives were lost from the Tsunami and pyroclastic flows over open water according to the records of the Dutch authorities. Spectacular sunsets were viewed for many months afterwards around the world and average global temperatures in the year following the eruption dropped by 1.2 degrees due to the huge amounts of sulfur dioxide gas ejected. Krakatoa is directly above the subduction Zone of the Eurasian Plate and Indo-Australia Plate at a point when it makes a sharp bend from the horizontal coast of Java towards the more verticle coast of Sumatra.
My strategy for a weekend trip to Krakatau from Jakarta is to leave work on Friday a little early and catch a bus from a Slipi bus stop on Jl S Parman to the port of Merak in Banten where ferries cross over to the port of Bakauheni in Lampung. From Bakauheni there are numerous little Angkut or "bus vans" which will drop you off within Kalianda. Alternatively, larger buses crossing the strait on the ferries are happy to squeeze you in and will drop you off at the turnoff to Kalianda where you can get a motorcycle taxi to a hotel. I left Jakarta at 6 pm and made it to Kalianda about 11 pm on Friday night. In other years I have taken Silver Bird taxis to Merak, rented cars and taken private vehicles across. The cheapest way is definately the bus from the Slipi bus stop.
Fishing boats out to Krakatau can be arranged by any of the hotels in Kalianda but it is best if you call in advance otherwise they may have all gone fishing. Hotel telephone numbers can be found below. I didn't call in advance and had to go down to the small fishing port where the fishing boats were unloading their morning catches and didn't get away until 11 am on Saturday. It is best to get one of the larger fishing boats with shelter from the sun, one of my Krakatau trips was in a smaller outrigger style boat and I ended up burnt to a crisp. Avoid using the local harbourmaster to assist in securing a boat because the price will inevitably go up, possibly considerably.
The boat trip takes four to five hours and passes other islands such as Pulau Sebesi whose entire population was wiped out in the 1883 eruption. The captain of my fishing boat Bapak Kumis put down a couple of lines and caught two Ikan Tongkol which he barbequed on a kerosine stove. A very tasty supplement to my instant noodles!! Something to remember, every time I take a trip on one of these fishing boats I kick myself for forgetting earplugs. They operate extremely noisy diesal engines, and it is difficult to find a place on the boat where you can escape the noise (overboard perhaps). Stop off at a chemist to pick some up before you leave Jakarta.
The approach is long and slow. At first it is indiscernable in the horizon haziness then it very gradually looms into view. My first site was of a cone without any of the expected ash clouds, and I thought perhaps it had become dormant again. My thoughts were proven wrong as in about five minutes it threw up a column of ash. It was erupting approximately every five or six minutes emitting huge pillars of smoke that gradually drifted away to the southwest dropping ash and sometimes pumice into the sea. The Krakatau island group is actually four islands Pulau Rakarta, Pulau Sertung, Pulau Krakatau Kecil and Pulau Anak Krakatau. The active volcano, Anak Krakatau or child of Krakatau, started emerging from the sea in 1923 in between the other three in the area of ocean where three other craters stood before the 1883 eruption.
A visit to Krakatau is easily a weekend trip if you're based in Jakarta or flying into Jakarta on a Friday early in the evening. My favorite point for getting a boat out is not via the better known Anyer and Carita in Banten Province on the West Coast of Java but the less direct route departing from Kalianda in southern Lampung. Anyer and Carita these days are much more visited by Jakartans with all of the usual crowds, rubbish and traffic. Although it takes a little more time, chartering a fishing boat from the sleepy fishing village of Kalianda in South Sumatera is a much more interesting option than braving the hoards in Banten.
Some facts about Krakatau. The 1883 eruption was one of the most violent volcanic events of modern times around 13,000 times the yield of the bomb which destroyed Hiroshima. 36,417 lives were lost from the Tsunami and pyroclastic flows over open water according to the records of the Dutch authorities. Spectacular sunsets were viewed for many months afterwards around the world and average global temperatures in the year following the eruption dropped by 1.2 degrees due to the huge amounts of sulfur dioxide gas ejected. Krakatoa is directly above the subduction Zone of the Eurasian Plate and Indo-Australia Plate at a point when it makes a sharp bend from the horizontal coast of Java towards the more verticle coast of Sumatra.
My strategy for a weekend trip to Krakatau from Jakarta is to leave work on Friday a little early and catch a bus from a Slipi bus stop on Jl S Parman to the port of Merak in Banten where ferries cross over to the port of Bakauheni in Lampung. From Bakauheni there are numerous little Angkut or "bus vans" which will drop you off within Kalianda. Alternatively, larger buses crossing the strait on the ferries are happy to squeeze you in and will drop you off at the turnoff to Kalianda where you can get a motorcycle taxi to a hotel. I left Jakarta at 6 pm and made it to Kalianda about 11 pm on Friday night. In other years I have taken Silver Bird taxis to Merak, rented cars and taken private vehicles across. The cheapest way is definately the bus from the Slipi bus stop.
Fishing boats out to Krakatau can be arranged by any of the hotels in Kalianda but it is best if you call in advance otherwise they may have all gone fishing. Hotel telephone numbers can be found below. I didn't call in advance and had to go down to the small fishing port where the fishing boats were unloading their morning catches and didn't get away until 11 am on Saturday. It is best to get one of the larger fishing boats with shelter from the sun, one of my Krakatau trips was in a smaller outrigger style boat and I ended up burnt to a crisp. Avoid using the local harbourmaster to assist in securing a boat because the price will inevitably go up, possibly considerably.
The boat trip takes four to five hours and passes other islands such as Pulau Sebesi whose entire population was wiped out in the 1883 eruption. The captain of my fishing boat Bapak Kumis put down a couple of lines and caught two Ikan Tongkol which he barbequed on a kerosine stove. A very tasty supplement to my instant noodles!! Something to remember, every time I take a trip on one of these fishing boats I kick myself for forgetting earplugs. They operate extremely noisy diesal engines, and it is difficult to find a place on the boat where you can escape the noise (overboard perhaps). Stop off at a chemist to pick some up before you leave Jakarta.
The approach is long and slow. At first it is indiscernable in the horizon haziness then it very gradually looms into view. My first site was of a cone without any of the expected ash clouds, and I thought perhaps it had become dormant again. My thoughts were proven wrong as in about five minutes it threw up a column of ash. It was erupting approximately every five or six minutes emitting huge pillars of smoke that gradually drifted away to the southwest dropping ash and sometimes pumice into the sea. The Krakatau island group is actually four islands Pulau Rakarta, Pulau Sertung, Pulau Krakatau Kecil and Pulau Anak Krakatau. The active volcano, Anak Krakatau or child of Krakatau, started emerging from the sea in 1923 in between the other three in the area of ocean where three other craters stood before the 1883 eruption.
The 2007 eruptions have opened up a new crater on the western side of the cone and it is easiest to view from a the relative safety of a boat circumnavigating the island. It's an awesome site seeing the powerful blasts of an erupting volcano, the huge bolders that sail through the air and the red hot lava that streams down the mountain. Krakatau in 2007 does not dissapoint. I had been told by the people in one of the Kalianda hotels that it was fine to stay the night on Anak Krakatau but after hearing and seeing some of the huge explosions I instructed Pak Kumis to make a beeline for one of the other islands. We ended up dropping anchor at Pulau Krakatau Kecil where we had a safe view of Krakatau blowing its top.
Some prices and other information:
Bus from Jakarta to Merak = Rp 20,000
Ferry to cross Sunda Strait = Rp 9,000
Bus from Bakauheni to Kalianda = Rp 20,000
Motorcycle Taxi to Hotel = Rp 5,000
Night in a decent hotel room at Hotel Kalianda = Rp 100,000
Fishing Boat Charter = Rp 800,000
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